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Conegliano-Valdobbiadene: Land of Prosecco
text Silvia Baratta
The Prosecco of
Conegliano-Valdobbiadene: The authentic Prosecco. It is known as an
informal wine with style that is known throughout the world for its
drinkability and pleasant taste. But be aware—all Proseccos are not created
equal. The DOC Prosecco, which conforms to the rules of the
Denominazione di Origine Controllata, originates solely from a hilly
area in Northeastern Italy less than 100 miles from Venice. In the United
States, Prosecco is becoming more and more well known and is beginning to be
introduced as an apéritif, an all-Italian concept. Today, more than one
million bottles are sold in the United States and the numbers continue to
increase. The United States represent the third-largest export market after
Germany and Switzerland with 8 percent of total sales. Besides the Prosecco
of Conegliano-Valdobbiadene, other imitation wines are becoming more
widespread that are made with the same Prosecco grape but in other
production areas that result in products much different than the original.
It is therefore important to get to know the authentic area of production so
that it doesn’t get confused with imitations. We will reveal the secrets of
the DOC zone and its people who are brought together by the passion for this
sparkling wine.
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Before everything else, Prosecco is the
name of the grape variety used to make the wine itself, just as Cabernet,
Merlot and Chardonnay are names of grapes used to make wines of the same
name. For more than 200 years, the Prosecco vine has been cultivated in the
area of Conegliano-Valdobbiadene in the province of Treviso, about 80 miles
from Venice. It is a very historic zone and even today, the best Prosecco
comes from this area, the only one that can make use of the DOC title and
offer the guarantee that the wine was produced and bottled according to
certain rigid rules. In Conegliano-Valdobbiadene, ideal climatic conditions
for the cultivation of Prosecco are found: The Dolomites protect the vines
from cold winds and the Adriatic Sea mitigates the climate for every season.
But it’s not only the environment that has created Conegliano-Valdobbiadene,
Land of Prosecco. In fact, man has played an important role. In the area,
viticulturists have learned to interpret the vine and respect the history of
the land. Even today, all of the phases of work in the vineyard are
undertaken by hand and thanks to this synergy between man, vine and
territory, the three elements that the French call terroir, Prosecco
is now one of the most appreciated and well-known wines in the world.
Tourism in Conegliano-Valdobbiadene
Conegliano-Valdobbiadene is a
fascinating area that is yet to be discovered. Venetian villas, castles and
medieval villages are characterizing elements of these hills that comprise
of 15 small districts between the cities of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene.
Here, in 1964, the Strada del Vino, a tourist wine route, was born
that departs from Conegliano and passes through the most beautiful places of
the area. Conegliano is known for its long history, art and cultural center.
Not by coincidence, the first enological school in Italy was started here
and the first experimental center for the studies of Viticulture and
Enology. Here, Antonio Carpenè, a historic name in Italian enology, studied
and patented the Italian method for the production of Prosecco, which is
today the same procedure used by all of the houses that make this sparkling
wine.
At the start of the Strada del Vino, visitors can allow themselves to
relax in the slow rhythm of the hills for nearly 60 miles until they reach
Valdobbiadene, where the scenic route comes to an end. Here the vine is
unquestionably the protagonist and every corner of the territory is covered
in vineyards. The pride of Valdobbiadene is Cartizze, a hill entirely
covered in rows of vines and where the famous Prosecco Superiore di Cartizze
is produced, a complex sparkling wine that is the true cru of the
Prosecco DOC. This is one of the most precious enological zones in the world
due to the fact that the hill of Cartizze only has 100 hectares of surface
area available for vines, so the ratio of vines per hectare reaches very
high numbers.
The Different Styles of Prosecco di
Conegliano-Valdobbiadene
The Prosecco of Conegliano-Valdobbiadene
is mainly produced in a sparkling style. The method used to make the wine in
a sparkling style is the Italian method (called charmat in French),
which is still today the best for preserving the typical fruity and floral
aromas of Prosecco. The charmat method is different than that used in
the production of Champagne. Champagne is made using a method of
refermentation in the bottle—a slow procedure that heightens the aromas that
result from the yeast fermentation. The charmat method, on the
contrary, is the result of a rapid fermentation that occurs in large batches
kept under pressure. It is because of this procedure that Prosecco, a
semi-aromatic varietal, is able to maintain its fruity, floral notes that
are characteristic of the grape.
More than 80 percent of the entire production of Prosecco is sparkling and
can be found in stores in many versions, including Brut, Extra Dry and Dry.
The defining characteristics are a light body and an aromatic profile that
recalls fruit and flowers like acacia, hawthorn, roses and wisteria. The
color is pale yellow. For the production of Prosecco, grapes are selected
that come from the medium-high parts of the hill where the maturation is
longer, the aromas are more developed and there is a greater quantity of
acid in the grapes.
The Prosecco of Conegliano-Valdobbiadene
 is
a modern sparkling wine that is pleasing to every type of palate. Besides
being an ideal partner for the cuisine of the area, it adapts itself
perfectly to the ethnic foods of Asia, fish from the Adriatic Sea and to all
appetizers and first courses.
Extra Dry: This type is the most traditional. The residual sugar
can be as high as 20 grams per liter. The Extra Dry style has a fresh
aromatic profile that precisely recalls apples, pears and citrus. The palate
is soft and dry. It is ideal as an aperitif and marries perfectly with
legume soups, a seafood medley and first courses with delicate sauces. It is
also ideal with fresh cheeses, white meats and lake fish. It should be
served at 46-50º F.
Brut: This is a modern style with notes of citrus and vegetables.
It has a light scent of bread crust due to the yeast. It is best with fish
appetizers and vegetables, vegetable tortes, first courses with seafood and
second courses with fish. It should be served at 45-48º F.
Superiore di Cartizze: The Cartizze hill represents the area most
well known; it is the cru of the denomination. The vineyards here are
cultivated in conditions that are highly sloped and at an elevated altitude.
The wine from Cartizze has a minimum alcohol level of 11.5 percent and 9is
produced only in the Dry version. It pairs perfectly with dry crust-based
desserts like shortbread, tarts and sweet buns.
Useful Advice
Label: Always
read the label. It should read “Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene DOC.”
Storage: Do not keep the bottle for more than one year after
purchase. Prosecco is known for its fruity and floral perfumes given by the
grape. With time, these aromas tend to dissipate. Keep the bottle in a cool
and dry place.
Service: Use a glass that is not too narrow, avoiding the classic
flute that does not do justice to the qualities of the wine. A larger glass
is better, like those used for aromatic white wines. Serve at 46-50º F.
The best way to get to know this wine, however, is to visit the territory.
The ideal occasion is Vino in Villa, an event dedicated entirely to Prosecco
that occurs during the third week of May at the St. Salvatore di Susegana
Castle in the heart of the province of Treviso. In the halls of the castle,
more than 70 producers and greater than 250 labels make an appointment to
meet their consumers.
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